Balenciaga AW17 – Paris Men’s Fashion Week
Appropriating, reinventing, and otherwise exploiting contemporary culture and global branding, Demna Gvasalia implemented a thoughtful vernacular that sought to “inject warmth, softness and comfort into the stiff archetypes of business attire and politics.”
Demna Gvasalia’s AW17 men’s range employed a willful cross-pollination of cheeky references: bold Balenciaga logos done in the image of Bernie Sanders’ typeface and Kering font; dapper corporate codes imbued with an offbeat, insurgent attitude (think ‘American Psycho’ outerwear with an extreme avant-garde and anarchical twist); 80’s and 90’s silhouettes with hyperbolic and exaggerated proportions (narrow trousers, expansively-tailored trenches and goofy sneakers); traditional luxe handicraft fused with sporty, street-smart vibes; and sassy subversions that came in the form of blue and red shirts, big billowing striped scarves, leather ‘paper bag’ totes and Patrick Bateman’s riotous raincoat. Demna, who is viewed by the global fashion set as a sort of ‘sartorial disruptor’, infused yesterday’s Balenciaga showcase with ideological juxtapositions and channeled the current power structures of our evolving, utterly skitzo political landscape. It was a ‘syncretic-aesthetic’ spiked with progressive politics, pomo conceptualism, corporate cannibalism and some serious swagger. Oh, and Comme des Garçons’ Rei Kawakubo sat second row. Whoa.