Gareth Pugh SS17
“He’s an agent of chaos, a crowned anarchist emerging amid a climate of greed and narcissism — it’s essentially about an empire eating itself — which felt alarmingly relevant,” said Gareth about his opulent, operatic and high-octane duds. Gareth delivered a barrage of bang-up silhouettes in black and gold (35 in all) that metaphorically unfolded the imperial story in all its splendors and its miseries. Specifically, Gareth was thinking about 17th century Italian opera Eliogabalo (an opera based on the life of the Roman emperor Heliogabalus), which he gussied up the night before. He sent girls down the runway wearing grandiloquent, goth-y garb bristling with 3D lozenges (diamond shapes), baroque gowns, body armor and pulsating sublime pantsuits in black and white. Dark and theatrical with deities and demons, the collection crackled with references to the current political climate (think Trump/the Alt-Right, power politics, Brexit, etc.). There were sun goddesses and shamans wearing sculptural high priestess silhouettes, architectural purple-plum dresses, caftans and spiked halos that were sensational and regal. Val Garland‘s makeup was all charcoal-colored smudged lips and dramatic hair (like the texture of fresh igneous rock and hot tar); and swirling symbologies of chaos that conjured primordial voids and political vacuums (perhaps a harbinger of things to come, in Gareth’s mind). Congrats, Gareth!
Images via Gareth’s social media x A.D.