Hood By Air SS17
Shayne Oliver takes slam-dunk subject matter (sex, porn, gender, race, etc.) and turns it into optically charged sartorial knockouts. For SS17, the Hood By Air hustler sent out vamps, tramps and Wolfgang Tillmans (who recently shot Shayne’s portrait for Fantastic Man) wearing his oddball ensembles and covered in protoplasmic goo (what was meant to be ‘jiz‘, we conjecture). The overbold and erotic marketing was extreme this time around, and even debuted on various porn sites courtesy of Pornhub, the sponsor of the show. The designer also showcased several synergies and collabs — Hustler, Pornhub and his fledgling music label Wench — vis-a-vis his clothing line, which had an unabashed surreal vibe (um, two-sided mutant cowboy boots – below) and lubed up edge. Titled Handkerchief, the outlandish outfits came in a palette of mostly tan, ruby red, black, blue and white, and consisted of awesome anarchic silhouettes with cheeky slogans (“I Touch Myself” was on the soundtrack; and “Hustler” and “never trust a church girl” were emblazoned on the tops) and X-rated insinuations (one of HBA’s models seemed to be perusing porn on his smartphone as he sashayed down the runway). HBA also featured little pleated schoolgirl skirts and piqué polo shirts, and a double-waisted pant piece with a gold zipper running up one leg. Highly conceptual, utterly impractical. Cool, though.