Maison Margiela – ‘Artisanal’
At Margiela, John Galliano channeled that scene from ‘There’s Something About Mary.’ Think glistening hair gel, jumbled up outfits and jizz frizz galore.
The O.G. Belgian designer — Martin Margiela — was always one for radicalizing, re-appropriating and re-engineering his artisanal rags. By way of alchemy and a deft hand, the top-dog designer would mutilate fabrics and materials, rip them to shreds and then suture them back together like a triage surgeon on speed. Honoring that heterodox method, John Galliano, a designer on par with the House’s eponymous maestro, adds infinite artistic fuel to the fire, keeping the avant-garde flame burning fucking bright.
His latest lacerations (he sliced and diced jersey dresses and crin trenches, etc.) looked off the wall surreal, artisanal and embodied all the artsy-fartsy fashion adjectives you’d have read in Dazed, i-D, The NYT and everywhere else: ‘redefined glamour,’ ‘elevation’, ‘mind-blowing precision’, yadda-yadda. There were 23 looks in all with a focus on fantasy, pomp and very, very, very pulchritudinous muses. Hacking and hijacking couture codes and then re-factoring them in heteroclite ways, the Galliano/Margiela get-ups were eccentric (duh!), bursting with metallic blue hues, lots of life and alien energy. The master blaster even sent girls down the runway with slimy, gummed-up hair and muculent manes (as if they left the shower in a hurry before rinsing). It was kinda cool, we guess, and reminded us of that scene from ‘There’s Something About Mary.’ VIVISXN’s favorite look was that Asian lassie (below) with snow white skin sporting that ‘carved leather’ crop top thing. The face ornaments and makeup were cool, too. But the cowboy boots, done in sublime white/gold with metallic finishes, undermined the aesthetic.
Images Martin Margiela
VIVISXN MEDIA – Fashion + Art