Rick Owens FW/17 – A Brave New World Order
Titled “Glitter“, Rick delivered a ravishing range about self-protection, power-projection and hedging against uncertainty.
Eschewing his usual penchant for presenting dystopian/brutalist themes (last season Rick channeled ecological catastrophes and eschatological angst) in favor of a more positive affirmation to existence, Rick’s AW17 men’s range, titled ‘Glitter’, was a tribute to 70s era transgression, political resistance, and the expansion of individual autonomy. With an iffy American political transition underway, and an uncertain geopolitical climate that contains pockets of chaos and illiberal tendencies that threaten our fragile, globalized world order, Rick reflected the turbulence of our times with ominously alluring looks that had a stark, spirited ardor. “It was supposed to be about glamour, flamboyance, extravagance and joy, and Dionysian pleasures, but still about fear, in a way. The clothes were basically about fear, that’s what those are,” said the designer. “They’re about pretending and presenting yourselves as powerfully as we really want to be.”
Models donned avant-garde duds that were basically cushion-y armor things — essentially, inflatable protective airbags — to safeguard against systemic shocks, tactical threats and social strife. Rick was making a statement about economic patriotism and ethno-nationalism, personified by the new POTUS, perhaps, or Brexit, etc. that seems everywhere ascendant. Transnationalism is yielding to tribalism, and this collection embodied that notion in spades. The standout looks were the ultra durable leather jackets, looking roughshod and hardcore, with zippered lateral pouches to store ammo or pepper spray; the dusky lilac suit jackets were dope, too, teeming with weird asymmetries, bulbous twists and tenebrous goth/grunge embellishments; and we really felt the pretty puffa pieces with juiced-up volumes and divine, multi-colored contrasts. Wow!
Images via Rick Owens
VIVISXN – Fashion + Politics + Avant-Garde