‘Fashion That Doesn’t Suck – SS19‘
From fetishistic performances to politicized streetwear, the fashion we’ve seen over the past week has challenged injustice, questioned socio-political constructs and interrogated global Pop culture. Artists and activists like Vaquera, Gareth Pugh, Graham Hudson and Kiko Kostadinov are not only interpreting the world around us, but are also shifting boundaries and reflecting the evolution of our personal, ideological and technological identities. In a world of palpable angst and blasé aesthetics, here are a few full-tilt, titillating as fuck fashion mavericks crushing the comp.
↑ Neon Braids at Nicholas Kirkwood SS19
Gareth Pugh’s tribute to London’s eternal style icon/house mother, Judy Blame, included a full-throttle celebration of outsiders, eccentrics and underground creatives. He presented a rogue and ravishing pastiche of 80s club kids, bondage freaks, sexual avatars and artistic extremism. There were gimps galore, a pregnant model, crotch-snatching striped one-piece suits, a soiled runway, luscious leather ensembles (that were beyond sexy!) and slick club-kid combat boot stompers. We’re very inspired!
Kiko Kostadinov featured futuristic womenswear to stave off dystopian nightmares. Inspired by Aldous Huxley and sci-fi futurism, designers Laura and Deanna Fanning dropped a bang-up range that included bold colorways/hybrid pigments, dynamic silhouettes, star-shaped bracelets and heterodox hairstyles that were embellished with ecdysis, or snakeskin that has been shed.
Graham Hudson x Riccardo Tisci x Burberry
Artist Graham Hudson combined forces with Riccardo Tisci to build a robotic installation for Burberry. Conjuring up mind-bending mechanics pulled straight from popular science and channeling the visionary sci-fi scribbler Isaac Asimov, as well as ‘cartesian coordinate robots’ and precision industrial machinery, this interactive installation (called Sisyphus Reclined) is seriously next-level.
cK – Raf Simons
Calvin Klein (Raf Simons) referenced “Jaws,” the ultimate Watergate film (#RussiaGate, actually) sounding the alarm over corrupt politicians, ideological ‘swamp monsters’ and a sense of menace and impending doom — sound familiar? Yep. We love the ‘Jaws/cK’ logos, the sexy scuba suits, the shark-bite cut-outs and the shredded skirts.
Ashish Gupta staged sexed up, shimmering and sequin-laden garments for sybarites, sex fiends and free spirits alike. Hoodies were emblazoned with ‘S&M Sex and Magic’ text (a homage to Robert Mapplethorpe, we think) and there were glittery bikini bottoms coupled with one-shoulder sequined shifts, mini-dresses, paillette-detailed tracksuits, camo mini-skirts, and hybridized outerwear. The hot to trot models were drenched in water (or baby oil) to make them look steamy dreamy. The presentation was all 90s hedonism and sex magic perfection. SEND NUDES!
Pop culture amalgams ruled at Fyodor Golan. There were vintage video games, Grace Jones-esque hoodie combos, gathered mini-skirts a la Madonna circa ’85, and a collab with SEGA’s Sonic The Hedgehog. Fyodor Golan hacks and hijacks pop culture writ large.
For SS19, Sadie Williams explored biker gangs, graphic schematics, sportswear and vivid nature. She explodes pattern, color, texture and metallics into a swirling sartorial tornado. Specifically there were references to Hells Angel ruffians, Japanese Bosozuko gangs, motocross maniacs and bygone biker gear worn by her punk’d out parents back in the day.
Ryan Lo’s ‘Saturn Returns’ showcased a bewitching and romantic range starring sexy psychics, waggish witches and pretty punk princesses. Overtly girlish with sheer flounces, frilled skirts, polka dot prints and lavish head pieces, Ryan ingeniously assimilated sub-styles from around the world that depict decora-Lolita, bubble-gum punk, Harajuko sweetness and radically re-imagined classics. This kawaii collection is totally fucking killer. We love you, Ryan Lo!
NYC Designer Raul Lopez of LUAR makes fierce and fluid clothes. His dark haute couture is a clever criss-crossing of horror movies, bondage, goth and other oddball subcultures. There are sombre Victorian elements combined with post-punk references, supernatural vampirism and a touch of surrealism. Raul makes perfect cocktail and wedding dresses for the dedicated gothic vixen.
Kim Shui creates hybrid tie-dyes, deconstructed dresses and brilliant ready-to-wear pieces, which are beautifully conceived and meticulously crafted. Fusing gorgeous femininity and streamlined sophistication, Kim’s SS19 collection of intricately engineered dresses, tailored tops, and sculptural skirts advanced a modern reinterpretation of timeless design and traditional silhouettes. Her reinterpreted qipao and floral get-ups are frontline as hell, especially when combined with pretty panther (leopard) prints. We love her multicultural, East-West mash-ups and transnational taste. We’re crushing hard on you, Kim Shui.
Merging elements of deconstructivism, minimalism, and utilitarianism through a gender fluid point-of-view, Shanghai-based designer Melody Lin of YǍJUN has been gaining traction in NYC’s cutthroat fashion scene. She excels at making audacious coats, deconstructed suits, and cool fusions of masculine and feminine. We love her over-scaled cargo pockets randomly placed on skirts and shirts and appreciate that she uses applied mathematics and classical music as inspiration for her electric, eclectic ensembles. 太棒了!
Always insane yet effortlessly cool, NYC-based Vaquera keeps fashionistas on their tippy toes with runway shows that correspond to their quirky/crass/edgy designs. Combining chaos and cheekyness with a serious subversive streak, Vaquera traverses the boundaries between street style and avant-garde anarchy.
Taking inspiration from her Chinese heritage, CSM graduate Yuhan Wang just made her LFW SS19 debut under the aegis of Fashion East. Sexy linen tops, lace dresses and lingerie-inspired pieces were injected with unorthodox details and structured shapes, giving them a playful, graphic and girly aesthetic. Pretty!
Asai’s multicultural cosmos…
A Sai Ta is the big brains behind Asai. Exploring personal narratives about his British-Vietnamese-Chinese background, he makes cool handmade textiles, camouflage print, deconstructed military uniforms and offbeat doodads. There’s something rogue, technically nuanced, and resolute in his creative output, especially given his cultural heritage. We love his fashion concepts and cosmopolitan distillations. Asai‘s SS19 is sick.
Designer, artist, tutor, collaborator, costume designer, and everything in-between, Louise Gray continually channels her signature burst of bold, bright, imaginative, and independently-minded artisanship to a shapeshifting universe of possibilities. The designer’s energy is infectious, which is why, after she walked away from the fashion system in 2013, the industry missed her so dearly. Check it…
Jeremy Scott staged a personal and highly political spectacle in NYC. The designer used his own teenage looks for inspiration, and strutted down the runway in a “Tell your Senator NO on Kavanaugh” t-shirt. Cheeky slogans and delightfully campy graphics (“Shock, Sex, Revolt”, stc.) were splashed on oversized t-shirts and sweatshirt dresses, with bags and accessories embellished with off-beat fonts and fun appliques. Unisex garb, neon dresses and miniskirts collided with cool streetwear, including dope bomber jackets, cotton hoodies, and eye-popping plaid things with yellow lace trim. “RESIST.”
Images via designers’ social media
VIVISXN MEDIA – Art + Fashion + Tech + Music + Pop Culture + 深度学习 + AI + Machine Learning + 音乐时尚 + 艺术 + 高科技 + 流行文化 + 大众文化 + 前卫艺术 + Yuhan Wang + Vaquera + YǍJUN + LUAR + Kim Shui + Jeremy Scott + Gareth Pugh + Ryan Lo + Xiao Li + Kiko Kostadinov + Calvin Klein + Raf Simons + Sadie Williams + Fyodor Golan + Fashion East + CSM Grads + LFW SS19 + NYFW SS19 + Artist Graham Hudson + Louise Gray + Fashion and Politics + “Fashion that doesn’t suck – SS19” + Burberry